mySKiN&CO

Toners are often undervalued – but they do perform a very useful task in your beauty routine.

They help to complete the cleansing process, especially if you wear makeup, removing any stray residue or excess oil that can clog your pores. (more…)

Popularity: 1% [?]

Regardless of your age, soap is a no-no. It’s too harsh, as are soapy cleansers. Some people believe their skin should feel tight and tingly after cleansing. But that would indicate that you are actually harming and drying out your skin. Soaps are alkaline, which means they can strip the skin’s essential acid mantle and also impair its waterproofing properties, potentially leaving it dry and flaky.

Instead, you should choose a suitable cleanser that caters for your skin type.

Contact mySKiN&CO today to book a skin-analysis consultation to be able to discuss your concerns further, and to see how you can achieve a healthy youthful skin.

Popularity: 1% [?]

A cleanser which leaves your skin feeling tight is a terrible no-no. It will be too harsh for you and will be stripping your skin of your natural oils – leading to sensitive and dry skin.

A cleanser should leave your skin feeling comfortable and relaxed. There are different types of cleansers – usually depending on personal preference and skin type:- (more…)

Popularity: 1% [?]

Pre-cleansing is an important part of a two-step cleansing process. It is done first to provide deep, specific cleansing and helps to lift off surface debris that can cause break-outs and dullness. This should then be followed with face wash or cleanser for complete cleanliness.

A gentle, oil-based pre-cleanser will help you achieve ultra-clean, healthy skin with a double cleansing regimen that melts off the layers of unwanted sebum (oil), makeup, (more…)

Popularity: 1% [?]

Yesterday I was reading an article about night creams and all ‘their benefits’. The article was arguing that because the skin repairs itself at night, then it is also the ideal time to treat the skin at the same time – and you would do this by applying a specific treatment cream, now appropriately marketed as a ‘night cream’. It also went on to say, that recently there has been a lot of the big brands launching their night cream, and are expecting a surge of people actually buying night creams. It is interesting to note that currently only 10% of Canadians (the article was from a Canadian newspaper) buy a night cream.

So, my goal here is to see whether we do really need 2 different creams, …

Is my skin different in the morning and at night?

Let’s first talk about the functions of the skin…
 Protection – the skin serves as a barrier to protect the inner parts of the body, and to prevent transport of harmful materials as well as water loss.
 Temperature Regulation – the skin helps to regulate the body temperature by warming and cooling the body.
 Healing – the skin has the ability to self-heal, repair tears and injuries.
 Immunity – the skin contains numerous immune cells that help identify, control, and eradicate germs from affecting the skin and entering the body.
 Sensory – the skin contains many nerves that detect cold, pain, pressure and heat.

It is good to note that the skin does all of the above all the time – that is day and night. The only difference that one can argue, between day and night, is that, if your body is resting during sleep, then your skin is mainly focusing on repairing the damages that the skin has gone through throughout the day – so that by morning it would be ‘recharged’ and ready to face the day, fighting pollution and germs. Hence, night cream marketers, take advantage of this and say that, there is no better time to apply a ‘high-tech cream’ than at night, so that the skin would have the cream’s hi-tech ingredients to absorb, when it is in its repairing-and-treating-mode – hence achieving better results, while getting more out of your cream.

This reasoning might hold some truth, however, one has to understand that there is more to it, than just applying a night cream, to achieve your desired skin results. It is useless, neglecting the skin by the day, reasoning, that your miracle night cream will reverse all the damage that the skin went through, during the day.

In addition, one has to note that the skin, although a highly-complex organ on its own, it is still part of a whole body system of different organs and systems. Hence, having your skin in top condition, is dependent on all systems working together harmoniously.

Some myths addressed

 Skin can be greasy at night – no one will see. A product doesn’t have to be rich and heavy for it to work. A greasy skin doesn’t mean that the product is better. Nowadays, products have moved away from the thick greasy texture of earlier days.
 A day cream and a night cream have different roles. It is true that in a way, your day cream has to protect the skin from the pollution, while your night cream has to have ingredients which will ‘treat’ the skin. However, the same product can do both for you, meaning that it is ideal both for the morning protection and the night treatment. In addition, there is no reason why your skin can’t have some hi-tech ingredients during the day (after all your skin is still repairing during the day), and no reason why your skin can’t have any protection at night (after all, is there less harmful environment pollutants in your bedroom than there is in your office?).
 A night cream is the answer to my problem. Night creams are not miracle products. Your lifestyle is more your answer to your problem. Aging of the skin is caused mainly through inflammation. The sun’s rays are very harmful, as well as alcohol and smoking, lack of sleep, bad nutrition, lack of exercise and stress. Your night cream, doesn’t reverse all this damage.

Do I Really Need A Night Cream?

So, my advice to you is that you are better off focusing on:
 making sure that you are applying the correct moisturizer for your skin’s needs,
 making sure to apply your moisturizer during the day and night (can be the same product),
 learning how to de-stress,
 protecting your skin from the sun’s rays, and
 ensuring that you are getting enough sleep.
All this will give you better skin results, than the urge to purchase expensive night creams.

P.S. If you have enjoyed this article, make sure to join this community by subscribing to the free wealth of information.

Popularity: 13% [?]

When looking for the correct moisturizer, one has to keep in mind that maintenance and hydration of a healthy skin is the result of a multifaceted masterpiece. In this article, I intend to give a general overview of ingredients – what ingredients have been found to be beneficial and what ingredients we should avoid.

Before we dig in, there are a few comments I wish to share….

When looking at moisturizers and ingredients, it is good to keep in mind that:
 You should especially check the first few ingredients because these ingredients are present in larger concentration in the product. Often the most important ingredients are at the bottom of the list, which means that there isn’t enough of it to have any impact on your skin or to make a difference of any kind.
 The list of ingredients below is just for your information, because in the end it is all about the combination of ingredients of the moisturizer. Add an extra ingredient and you might end up with a state-of-the-art moisturizer, or add too much of an ingredient and end up with a moisturizer which does more harm than good.
 It’s best to buy products from a skin treatment therapist or a dermatologist, who is able to analyse your skin and prescribe the right product for your skin type, needs and budget. In my opinion, it’s useless either off the shelf, just grabbing the product which says anti-wrinkle, and you think that that is what you need because you just turned 30, or buying from a department store where your skin’s needs are analysed with a mask of makeup on.

Moisturizer Agents

Moisturizers’ structure and function are surprisingly complex and sophisticated; many are halfway between cosmetics and drugs. Most moisturizing products are mainly combinations of humectants and emollients. Thousands of possible blends exist, which cause the differences between moisturizers, and the difference between creams, lotions and fluids. Other ingredients may be added to these moisturizing bases.

Modern-day moisturizers include agents that mimic natural ingredients and function as botanicals, including:
 Vitamins – when applied topically, they reduce skin’s damage from UV light and inflammation.
 hydroxy acids (AHAs such as glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric and citric acids. BHAs such as salicylic acid) – exfoliate, attract water to the skin, and have a normalizing effect on the skin, increasing its plasticity and flexibility.
 and retinoids – shown to be beneficial on photoaged (sundamaged) skin.
 Other common ingredients include elastin, collagen, DNA, RNA (ribonucleic acid), lecithin, sodium hyaluronate, PCA (sodium passive cutaneous anaphylaxis) and ceramides.

Humectants are substances that attract water when applied to the skin. They include glycerin, sorbitol, urea, AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) especially lactic acid, and sugars.

Occlusive ingredients prevent the loss of water, as they physically block the surface of the skin, thus producing a state of hydration. Lanolin was used for many years, however it has been replaced by petrolatum, because, of lanolin’s reputation of being an irritant.

Emollients fill in gaps in the skin, smoothing over wrinkles and helping to soften the appearance of dry patches by lubricating the surface. They provide a smooth surface for makeup application. Emollients act as vehicles – they help place, spread, and keep other agents on the skin. For example, in suncreens, emollients help spread the sunscreen agents across the skin and hold it in place. Emollients also act as performance ingredients – they lubricate the skin’s surface, act as a guard for the barrier function, and lie on top of the skin to prevent dehydration by trapping water. The type of emollient and the water-to-oil ratio determines for which skin type the moisturizer is.
Emollients are almost always fatty agents:–
 oils of various sorts – mineral oil and petrolatum (oils from the earth), cetyl alcohol, oleic acid, stearic acid and octyl palmitate are heavier oils, while safflower, sunflower, canola and jojoba oil are lighter and less comedogenic natural oils (oils from plants)
 fatty esters, which are derived from triglycerides which are fats from plants or animals (usually ingredients which end in ‘–ate’ such as tridecyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, octyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate
 fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol. Fatty alcohols are fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen, they are not drying alcohols like isopropyl alcohol or SD (specially denatured) alocohol.
 fatty acids and waxes.

Ingredients to Avoid

FDA is not so strict on creams – because they are not considered drugs, so some products with harmful ingredients are not taken off the shelf.

The most frequent ingredients liable for skin sensitivity and irritation are:
 fragrances (mainly cinnamic alcohol, hydroxycitronella and isoeugenol),
 preservatives, especially formaldehyde-releasing preservative systems, (notably quaternium-15, imidazolidinyl urea and bronopol),
 lanolin (an occlusive agent),
 sunscreens.

Among the plethora of ingredients, according to eMedicine Dermatology, which are capable of producing adverse effects are:
 Citral
 Cinnamic aldehyde
 Benzyl salicylate
 Phenylacetaldehyde
 Balsam of Peru
 Lemon oil
 Methyl heptane carbonate
 Methyl anisate
 Jasmine oil
 Cananga oil
 Ylang-ylang oil
 Balsam of tolu
 Bergamot oil
 Lavender oil
 Cedar wood oil
 Neroli oil
 Petigrain oil
 Beeswax
 Spermaceti
 Essential oils
 Hexachlorophene
 Bithionol
 Parabens
 Almond oil
 Sesame oil
 Olive oil
 Corn oil
 Peach kernel oil
 Peanut oil
 Imidazolidinyl urea
 Sorbic acid
 Stearamido diethylamine
 Triethanolamine
 Surfactants
 Vitamin E
 Alcohols
 Sulfated alcohols
 Sodium lauryl sulphate
 Phenylmercuric acetate

Source: Milady’s Standard: Comprehensive Training For Estheticians
eMedicine Dermatology
Don’t Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me by Paula Begoun

Moisturizers Part 1: The Benefits of Moisturizers

Moisturizers Part 2: The Best Moisturizer for My Skin Type

Popularity: 12% [?]

We are all aware that one moisturizer doesn’t fit all. Every skin type and skin condition deserves different treatment. Let’s look at moisturizers for different skin types and skin conditions.

Moisturizer for sensitive skin

It’s essential to understand that usually people with sensitive skin have a ‘damaged’ stratum corneum which is the visible layer of the skin. Our skin has a natural barrier – this works to prevent moisture loss, and acts as a barrier against penetration of irritants. Aging, sun damage and the use of harsh products can break down the barrier.

So, our aim is to focus on restoring the skin’s barrier function. This is achieved by eliminating as much as possible, water loss that occurs through the skin, especially while the barrier is renewing itself.

This is done through products which contain 2 specific agents. Occlusive ingredients help to ‘trap’ the water already present in the skin, and equally important, humectant (water-loving) ingredients which attract water from the environment into the skin.

Someone with sensitive skin should avoid fragrance ingredients, stimulants, most exfoliants, surfactants, highly acidic or alkaline products, colour agents and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives. One needs to look out for soothing ingredients such as bisabolol, azulene, licorice extract, chamomile or matricaria extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate or stearyl glycyrrhetinate, which also have anti-redness and anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, certain antioxidant ingredients, like grapeseed extract and green tea extract, are also anti-inflammatory due to their properties for controlling free radical reactions.

Moisturizer for oily skin / acne prone skin

Moisturizers and hydrating products that are intended for dry skin, usually contain fatty acids and other fatty substances that are excellent for dry skin. However, oily and acne-prone skin already produces enough emollient naturally in the form of sebum. Hence, it certainly does not need more fatty material applied to the skin, which would only flow in the follicles, clogging the sebum and causing ‘blackheads’ to form.

Another misleading term is ‘oil free’. The product might truly be ‘oil-free’, but sometimes they are instead loaded with fatty ingredients, such as fatty esters, fatty acids and other ‘blackheads’-causing agents, which are much worse in terms of their contribution to clogging.

Always look out for products intended for acne-prone or oily skin, which have been properly tested for comedogenicity (not causing clogging and ‘blackheads’). Hydrators intended for problem skin should contain water-binding humectants, such as sodium PCA, hyaluronic acid, glycerine or sorbitol; which help to add moisture into the skin without exposing it to fatty substances. For someone who is acne-prone, but also concerned with aging and sun damage, then look for products which contain good anti-aging ingredients, such as AHAs and antioxidants that have been designed not to clog acne-prone skin. It is good to note that products for oily skin tend to have some mattifying ingredients to control the shine, while products for acne-prone skin which is slightly dry (usually when the acne is hormone-related), tend to have some kind of emollient (‘slip’) added, but emollient which does not cause ‘blackhead’ reactions.

In general, products for acne-prone and oily skin are usually very lightweight – in that the product, when applied, feels wet rather than creamy, because most are fluids and not creams.

Moisturizer for active acne

I intend to write a whole article on acne – what exactly is acne and how it can be treated. However for now, people with active acne should follow some of the advice from the moisturizer for oily and acne prone skin. In addition, adding products with AHA or BHA to help to exfoliate so as not to have a build-up of dead skin cells covering the follicles, and adding Vitamin A (but the fat soluble and not the acid form).

Moisturizer for dry skin

Dry skin is considered to be a skin type, because it is hereditary, not due to environmental influences. Dry skin, and most mature skin, suffers from a lack of sebum (oil) production. To treat dry skin, a similar procedure used for sensitive skin is preferred. Protective emollients – mainly oils, fatty materials such as fatty alcohols or esters – are used to keep natural moisture from escaping from the top layer of the skin, by placing a layer of emollient ingredients over the skin. This technique is called occlusion, where you are basically cutting off any oxygen to the skin and you are trapping moisture into the skin. The emollients – ingredients used – are known as occlusive agents.

Moisturizer for dehydrated skin

Dehydrated skin is a condition in which the skin is suffering from a loss of water and hydration between the skin’s cells. Dehydration is a skin condition, and can affect all skin types (i.e. dry, oily or acne-prone,…). So one can be oily and dehydrated, or dry and dehydrated, or mature and dehydrated. A lot of people tend to suffer from dehydration, and it is usually caused by factors such as environmental, life-style, stress,…

Products, ideal to treat dehydrated skin, are formulas with ingredients that actually attract water to the skin’s surface. They can lock water on the skin, improving the symptoms of dehydration. These ingredients are also known as humectants or hydrophilic (water-loving) agents, and include ingredients such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate), sodium PCA, sorbitol, butylene and propylene glycol, algae extracts, and seaweed extracts. These special ingredients absorb water from moisture products, and have the ability to attract water from the atmosphere into the skin.

An important fact is that properly hydrated skin definitely functions better than skin lacking moisture. A well-hydrated skin, will absorb and hold beneficial ingredients more. Hence it’s essential to first treat a skin for dehydration, then afterwards to start feeding the skin with other ingredients for say anti-aging properties. I always like to give an example of a grape when all the water is taken out of it, it becomes a shrivelled grape – a raisin. The same happens to the cells – they won’t be well hydrated and plump, if they are dehydrated. The trick is to keep them well-hydrated, plump and juicy, so they will perform at optimum level, and hence they will make the most of a ‘good’ ingredient.

Moisturizer for pigmentation

Again, pigmentation deserves a whole article dedicated to just pigmentation. It is very hard to treat pigmentation with just a product, especially if the pigmentation is hormone related. Usually products just lighten the pigmentation, and sometimes the pigmentation comes more angry and worse when one is exposed to the sun, even if just for a brief amount of time. Whenever using a lightening product, it is a must to apply sunscreen frequently.

Moisturizer for mature skin

Usually people with mature skin tend to have dry skin, so they should go after products as defined for dry skin. And maybe add some anti-oxidants. The ‘miracle’ claims that this product will tighten the skin or lift the skin or eliminate wrinkles or reduce enlarged pores or paralyze muscles, have to all be taken into perspective – no cream will do the job that a plastic surgeon is able to do, or no cream is able to undo the sun damage that there is. So don’t believe exaggerated claims – if they are too-good-to-be-true, then most probably you are wasting your money.

Remember it is much better to prevent than to treat – so make sure to treat your skin well while it is young (hydrate it, don’t use harsh products and stay out of the sun). For those who wish to reverse some of the signs of aging look out for products which contain AHA ingredients, although one still needs to be careful and not to overdo it, as AHA thins the skin out. And as we age, our skin already tends to thin out, so thinning out the skin more tends to lead to more sensitivity. I personally like products which contain Vitamin A and other Vitamins.

Day vs Night Creams, Eye Creams, Neck Creams

We all know that the neck shows the first signs of aging, but does this, together with the eyes, requires a special cream. Well, there are different takes on this. Do the signs of aging occur most obviously first in the neck and eyes, because the skin in these areas is thinner or is it because a lot of movement and expression is done in this area, and over a period of time, because of the repetitive movements, then the skin starts showing expression lines? I am still researching this, but at the moment my views stand that I would use an eye cream, especially if I am using a not-so-rich cream for the face – maybe because I am slightly oily, but my eyes need hydration. The neck cream I don’t really believe in them, although I have some clients who swear that a particular neck cream does ‘miracles’.

Moisturizers with SPF

A next debatable subject is a moisturizer with an SPF – I completely disagree with these, because of a few reasons. First of all, if you have a set of ingredients which are supposed to penetrate the skin to be beneficial, and another set of ingredients which are supposed to sit on top of the skin to protect the skin against UV rays – and these sets of ingredients are mixed together, then what guarantee do you have that the ingredients which are supposed to penetrate are penetrating and the ingredients which are supposed to sit on top of the skin are staying there?! I understand that the molecules would be different – but I much rather have a cream specifically for ‘moisturizing’ my skin, and another cream acting as my sunscreen. Also, a sunscreen (will be dedicating a whole article on sunscreens) is supposed to be reapplied – so it’s better to have the moisturizer applied underneath to do it’s work, and you keep reapplying regularly just the sunscreen. Another important aspect is that most moisturizers with a sunscreen in them, have a very low SPF in them, which does not do much to protect against the sun’s harmful rays (although again in the sunscreen article, I will explain the difference between say an SPF 8 and an SPF 30). And psychologically, if the cream has an SPF, even though it will be a low SPF, people often think that they are covered, and don’t need extra protection.

Moisturizers Part 1: The Benefits of Moisturizers

Moisturizers Part 3: Ingredients to Look For and Ingredients to Avoid

Popularity: 11% [?]

After trying to fit all there is to know about moisturizers in one long article, I decided that it’s best to split the article in 3 sections. This article will deal with answering the question – ‘What is a moisturizer and what good is it for me?’. The second article will discuss moisturizers specific for your skin type and what ingredients you should look out for. The third part will focus on Ingredients – what to avoid, and my opinion on the controversial topic of specialized moisturizers.

This 3-part article is by no means exhaustive. And in the future, I will be writing articles on subdivisions of the general term ‘moisturizers’. For example, in this article, I will be talking a little bit about lightening products and acne products, but these among others deserve a whole article dedicated just to them. However, it’s essential to get the basics right first, before moving on to more advanced stuff. In addition, this article will be dealing with just face moisturizers.

Well, let’s begin with what exactly is a moisturizer?

The term moisturizer can be misleading…. The ‘official’ definition of a moisturizer according to the eMedicine Dermatology is:- A moisturizer is an agent, which usually comes in a form of a cream, which is designed to make the top layer of the skin softer and more supple by increasing its hydration.

However, that is restricting moisturizers to just creams and just to hydrate. So for our purposes we will define a moisturizer (as termed by Paula Begoun, in her book Don’t Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me) as simply a formula with healthy state-of-the-art ingredients. I prefer this, because all skin types need healthy state-of-the-art ingredients, and they can come in any form – cream, fluids, lotion, balm, gel, serum, liquid. Hence, someone with oily skin still needs a ‘moisturizer’, or rather a state-of-the-art ingredients formula, as defined above.

What will a moisturizer do to my skin?

State-of-the-art ingredients in a formula will:
 Soften, smooth and soothe dry skin
 Protect the skin from free-radical damage (product acts as a barrier between your skin and the ‘harmful’ environment)
 Maintain or improve your skin’s own barrier function (can decrease skin sensitivity)
 Keep water in the skin cell (helps to plump up the skin – a form of anti-aging)
 Reduce irritation or inflammation
 Provide a smooth base for subsequent makeup application
 Feed special treatment ingredients into the skin, including special formulas for oily and mature skin.
 Optimize healthy cell production, due to cell-communicating ingredients
… and this, all in an elegant, silky base.

Moisturizers Part 2: The Best Moisturizer for My Skin Type

Moisturizers Part 3: Ingredients to Look For and Ingredients to Avoid

Popularity: 4% [?]

A lot of people don’t bother using a toner. They think that putting on a toner is an extra step that they can do without, since they believe there is no benefit.

Well, let’s begin with the functions of a toner:

• removes traces of makeup and cleanser
• readjusts the skin’s pH level
• refreshes skin to feel completely clean
• provides moisture
• prepares skin for application of moisturizer.

Some common misconceptions
Toners do not close pores and do not refine the skin.

How to apply

Toners, fresheners, tonics, mists, astringents all refer to the same product. They can be applied either on a dampened cotton pad/wool, or some toners come in a spray bottle and can be used as a mist.

It is best to stay clear of the eye area with toners, unless you are using the mildest form.

Different types of toners

Toners vary in the content of drying agents, soothing agents, alcohol content, or keratolytic contact.

Toners should not contain any irritants. They should be free of drying alcohols (isopropyl or SD alcohol), should not be stimulating and should be fragrance free.
Toners should contain water-binding ingredients such as glycerine – a humectant which helps to keep the moisture in the upper layers of the epidermis by preventing it from evaporating. A popular example is rosewater. Some toners may include soothing agents such as chamomile extract or aloe.
Toners that add plant oils or emollients are best for normal to dry skin.

Toners for oily and acne-prone skin usually tend to contain agents that also help remove excess sebum and residue from cleansing milks. These ingredients include SD alcohol, witch hazel (hammamelis virginiana) extract, salicylic acid, or glycolic acid. They may also contain sulfur as an antibacterial. Toners for oily, acne-prone skin may also contain soothing agents such as chamomile extract or aloe.

However, one has to be careful how drying the toner can be, because it can cause irritation and make the situation worse. Harsh toners usually strip the skin of all its oils, leaving the skin dry, dehydrated and ‘unprotected’. Toners that add mild detergent cleansing agents with no emollients, are best for normal to oily skin.

Summary

Toners should leave the face feeling smooth and soft, remove any last traces of makeup, and most importantly, do not irritate the skin.
Toners should act as a great lightweight start, where they help by adding an extra portion of brilliant, healthy ingredients to the skin.

Popularity: 1% [?]

“I only use soap and water to cleanse my face”
All estheticians GASP when they hear this.

Have you ever wondered why we need a good cleanser and not just soap and water? …and what makes a good cleanser?

Let’s start with the main functions of cleansers:

• to dissolve makeup,
• to dissolve excess oil and surface impurities (such as dead skin cells, dirt, sweat, air pollution and bacteria),
• to help unclog pores, reduce the growth of bacteria, reduce infection and prevent skin conditions such as acne.

How do cleansers work?
Before we go any further it’s important to go into some technical detail on how cleansers work and from where this ‘dirt’ is collected.

The outermost layer of the skin is called the ‘epidermis’. It is composed of a tough protein-fat structure that produces a protective outer film – this acts as a barrier to the outside world, and helps to shield skin cells from the environment. It also acts as a waterproof barrier (skin moisture barrier). However, this film also traps and holds pollutants, smoke, bacteria, cell debris, sweat and cosmetics.

So, when cleansing our face we need to remove any ‘dirt’ while making sure that we are not over-stripping/irritating this protective film.

In addition, the skin produces both sebum and sweat, which create a barrier on the surface of skin. This is known as the acid mantle. The acid mantle also serves as a protective barrier against certain forms of bacteria and microorganisms.

The mantle of the skin varies in pH between 4.5 and 6.2 – which makes it slightly acidic. When the skin is exposed to low or high pHs (low as in strong acids and high as in high alkaline substances), inflammation can occur, along with varying degrees of accelerated exfoliation.

Why bar soaps are not considered ‘good’ cleansers?
Bar soaps:

• have a pH of 10, which make them highly alkaline. This disturbs the skin’s natural pH (average of 5.5), and can lead to the overgrowth of some types of bacteria, acne, inflammation and sensitivity.
• have thickeners that allow them to assume a bar shape. This can plug hair follicles (pores), leading to acne.
• can remove natural oils from the skin that form a barrier against water loss. This leads to the sebaceous glands to overproduce oil, which in turn leads to clogged pores.
• cause dryness and irritation. (some bar soaps have ingredients such as lanolin and glycerin added to them to reduce dryness)
• may leave a residue on the skin.

Hence, bar soaps do more harm than good. On the other hand, water alone only removes about 65% of the oil and dirt on your skin. So, we need skin cleansers.

What ingredient works on cleansing?
Detergents (not the type associated with washing floors or clothes, although from the same chemical family) are used primarily in cleansing products. Detergent is a surfactant, which is a chemical that reduces the surface tension between the skin’s surface and the product. Hence, they help with loosening dirt, excess sebum, bacteria, cosmetics and dead skin cells, on the skin’s surface, and helping to lift them off the skin. However, detergents that are too strong or in too heavy a concentration can remove too much sebum and actually damage the lipid barrier function of the skin. This is what causes the skin to feel very dry if a cleanser is too strong or overused.

Detergents are also the agents that cause cleansers to foam. Foam is formed by air coming between the skin and surface oils or debris. The more detergent, the more foam, or the longer the foam stays on the skin.

Types of Cleansers
Liquid cleansers:

• commonly known as gel cleansers or washable/foaming cleansers
• acts like soap with a foaming cleansing feel
• cleanses skin without the harshness of soap
• is nonalkaline and easy to use
• the more it foams up the more detergent there is. Hence it is best for normal to oily skin types
• not appropriate for sensitive, thin, fragile or dry skin – too drying
• may contain silicones as emollients – excellent to keep moisture trapped in skin, yet allowing oxygen in and out of the follicles
• might include ingredients such as lipids or oils – helpful as they clean skin without leaving it dry, dehydrated and irritated

Anti-Bacterial / Septic Washes:

• generally used for oily or acne-prone skin
• may reduce the presence of bacteria on the skin
• may contain topical antibacterial agents such as benzoyl peroxide, sulphur or resorcinol lotions
• may contain alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA) such as glycolic and lactic acids, or beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) such as salicylic acid
• may contain polyethylene beads – grains in a scrub cleanser to help mechanically remove dead cell build-up
• contain substantial concentrations of surfactants, producing a foam that helps remove the excess sebum that plagues this skin type
• active ingredients might be too drying and irritating on the skin, especially benzoyl peroxide
• active ingredients might get in your eyes while rinsing off the cleanser

Emulsion Cleansers:

• commonly known as cleansing milks, these are most often oil-in-water emulsions
• can use natural oils, mineral oil or other fatty materials as emollients
• excellent makeup removers
• good solvents for talc and pigments, which are removed more easily with emulsion than with many rinsable foaming cleansers
• usually liquid, but can vary in thickness depending on the oils and ingredients used in the formulation
• can be adapted for particular skin types – soothing agents can be added for sensitive skin, and oil-absorbing ingredients added for oilier skin types
• low foamers – less detergents, which makes it good for dry and sensitive skin
• often gentle on the skin
• wash and moisturize the skin (especially good for dry skin)
• a toner should be used after a cleansing milk to help remove the excess fatty material left behind

How often do we cleanse?
Depending on the cleanser used, everyone should cleanse once or twice a day. In the morning you will be removing mainly sweat and sebum, and in the evening you will also be removing any pollutants that your skin has accumulated during the day. But, you have to make sure that you have the cleanser which is appropriate for your skin, as otherwise cleansing twice a day might be too irritating.

Lightly rub the cleanser over your skin to loosen cosmetics, debris and dirt. Moisten finger-tips with water, for easier application. (Make sure that you cleanse your skin gently. The idea of ‘deep-cleaning’ the skin is unhealthy, as you can never get inside the pore to clean it out.) Then rinse well with warm water. Some people prefer just wiping off excess with a clean dry cloth/tissue. However, you have to make sure that you remove all the cleanser, as some ingredients could be irritating if left on the skin, and they might even clog the follicles (pores). After cleansing, it’s advisable to use a toner appropriate for your skin, as this helps to make sure that you remove any cleanser residue.

Summary
When choosing an appropriate cleanser, make sure it is gentle on the face, and water-soluble. Facial cleansers should rinse off easily, and remove all traces of makeup. Once the cleanser is rinsed off, it should not leave the skin feeling greasy, filmy, dry, tight or irritated. And it should never burn the eyes or taste bad.

In addition make sure to choose a cleanser that is appropriate for your skin – as a cleanser that is too greasy can create blemishes, while a cleanser that is too drying can create dry patches, since drying up the skin doesn’t stop the glands from producing oil.

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