Oily skin is a skin condition where there is over production of oil. This excess oil can lead to blackheads, pimples, and acne. However, sometimes people have acne without the excess oil production. This could be either because the acne is caused hormonally or people use too harsh products to control their acne which in turn dries the skin. There is a very important ingredient that has to be in your cleanser if you have oily skin or acne skin (including blackheads, pimples).

What goes on underneath the skin for oily skin

As you can see in the diagram, the sebaceous gland (where oil is produced) is ‘overactive’. This means that it is producing more oil than for someone with normal or dry skin. Most often this is genetic, or some medical conditions can contribute to more oil production, such as diabetes. The excess oil then travels up the shaft to the top layer of the skin. This is the visible part. When the oil reaches the top layer of the skin, it accumulates together with the dead skin cells that exist on the top layer of the skin. This then leads to pimples, blackheads, shininess and large pores, which are visible to us. But what is happening is underneath the skin.

Solution for oily skin and acne skin

In the above diagram, we see the following:

1. picture one has the overactive sebaceous gland. Oil travels up the hair follicle, and accumulates on the top layer of the skin. It kind of forms a plaque, leading to the blackheads, pimples, etc.
2. picture two has this special ingredient called Salicylic Acid (blue in the diagram). Salicylic Acid is an acid that is part of the Beta Hydroxy Aid (BHA) group. When we ‘pour’ Salicylic Acid down the shaft, it helps to ‘clear’ the shaft and dissolves the plaque. So now we won’t have an accumulation of oil on the top layer of the skin
3. picture three has a ‘clear’ shaft and no plaque on the top layer of the skin.

Other Benefits of Salicylic Acid

• Salicylic acid used in a face wash is better tolerated on the skin than if left on the skin. Sometimes if you put salicylic acid on the skin as a leave on product, it can irritate the skin and might even cause more oiliness.
• Even if the product is washed off, it is still effective to unclog pores and breakup pre-acne pimples.
• People with darker skin tones have to be careful when applying an acid to their face, as they tend to get post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. However, the risk with salicylic acid is very low when compared to other acids.

Cleansers that have Salicylic Acid

CeraVe Salicylic Acid Cleanser (no fragrance. Has ceramides to and niacinamide to calm redness)

Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Face Wash with Salicylic Acid 177ml (has fragrance, so it might be irritating for someone with sensitive skin. But has high concentration of salicylic acid at 2%)

Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash with Salicylic Acid 269ml (this is slightly larger and hence more economical. Can use on the body too for acne-prone skin, such as back and chest)

If you have access to Environ skincare products, they have their Sebu-Wash Gel Cleanser with Salicylic Acid

How to use these cleansers

• gently lather with fingertips (you don’t need to use a lot). I like to wet fingertips slightly before applying product to fingertips.
• let it sit on the skin for about 4 to 5 mins
• rinse off
• important to follow with a moisturizer to prevent trans-epidermal loss

Some precautions

• Do not use if allergic to aspirin.
• It is important to use a moisturizer that protects the skin barrier, so that the skin does not dry out and make the oil production and acne worse. A lightweight moisturizer that works well is CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM. This can be used both in the morning and at night. I like this one because it contains ceramides to protect the skin barrier, and niacinamide to calm any redness, that usually accompanies acne. However, some people say that it stings them a little bit. Another moisturizer which they would tolerate instead is the Cetaphil Daily Hydrating Lotion. It does not contain ceramides or niacinamide, but has hyaluronic acid.
• Always wear sunscreen during the day. A lightweight sunscreen can be CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion AM with SPF 30, or the Cetaphil Pro Oil Control Moisturizer with SPF 30.