“I only use soap and water to cleanse my face”
All estheticians GASP when they hear this.

Have you ever wondered why we need a good cleanser and not just soap and water? …and what makes a good cleanser?

Let’s start with the main functions of cleansers:

• to dissolve makeup,
• to dissolve excess oil and surface impurities (such as dead skin cells, dirt, sweat, air pollution and bacteria),
• to help unclog pores, reduce the growth of bacteria, reduce infection and prevent skin conditions such as acne.

How do cleansers work?
Before we go any further it’s important to go into some technical detail on how cleansers work and from where this ‘dirt’ is collected.

The outermost layer of the skin is called the ‘epidermis’. It is composed of a tough protein-fat structure that produces a protective outer film – this acts as a barrier to the outside world, and helps to shield skin cells from the environment. It also acts as a waterproof barrier (skin moisture barrier). However, this film also traps and holds pollutants, smoke, bacteria, cell debris, sweat and cosmetics.

So, when cleansing our face we need to remove any ‘dirt’ while making sure that we are not over-stripping/irritating this protective film.

In addition, the skin produces both sebum and sweat, which create a barrier on the surface of skin. This is known as the acid mantle. The acid mantle also serves as a protective barrier against certain forms of bacteria and microorganisms.

The mantle of the skin varies in pH between 4.5 and 6.2 – which makes it slightly acidic. When the skin is exposed to low or high pHs (low as in strong acids and high as in high alkaline substances), inflammation can occur, along with varying degrees of accelerated exfoliation.

Why bar soaps are not considered ‘good’ cleansers?
Bar soaps:

• have a pH of 10, which make them highly alkaline. This disturbs the skin’s natural pH (average of 5.5), and can lead to the overgrowth of some types of bacteria, acne, inflammation and sensitivity.
• have thickeners that allow them to assume a bar shape. This can plug hair follicles (pores), leading to acne.
• can remove natural oils from the skin that form a barrier against water loss. This leads to the sebaceous glands to overproduce oil, which in turn leads to clogged pores.
• cause dryness and irritation. (some bar soaps have ingredients such as lanolin and glycerin added to them to reduce dryness)
• may leave a residue on the skin.

Hence, bar soaps do more harm than good. On the other hand, water alone only removes about 65% of the oil and dirt on your skin. So, we need skin cleansers.

What ingredient works on cleansing?
Detergents (not the type associated with washing floors or clothes, although from the same chemical family) are used primarily in cleansing products. Detergent is a surfactant, which is a chemical that reduces the surface tension between the skin’s surface and the product. Hence, they help with loosening dirt, excess sebum, bacteria, cosmetics and dead skin cells, on the skin’s surface, and helping to lift them off the skin. However, detergents that are too strong or in too heavy a concentration can remove too much sebum and actually damage the lipid barrier function of the skin. This is what causes the skin to feel very dry if a cleanser is too strong or overused.

Detergents are also the agents that cause cleansers to foam. Foam is formed by air coming between the skin and surface oils or debris. The more detergent, the more foam, or the longer the foam stays on the skin.

Types of Cleansers
Liquid cleansers:

• commonly known as gel cleansers or washable/foaming cleansers
• acts like soap with a foaming cleansing feel
• cleanses skin without the harshness of soap
• is nonalkaline and easy to use
• the more it foams up the more detergent there is. Hence it is best for normal to oily skin types
• not appropriate for sensitive, thin, fragile or dry skin – too drying
• may contain silicones as emollients – excellent to keep moisture trapped in skin, yet allowing oxygen in and out of the follicles
• might include ingredients such as lipids or oils – helpful as they clean skin without leaving it dry, dehydrated and irritated

Anti-Bacterial / Septic Washes:

• generally used for oily or acne-prone skin
• may reduce the presence of bacteria on the skin
• may contain topical antibacterial agents such as benzoyl peroxide, sulphur or resorcinol lotions
• may contain alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA) such as glycolic and lactic acids, or beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) such as salicylic acid
• may contain polyethylene beads – grains in a scrub cleanser to help mechanically remove dead cell build-up
• contain substantial concentrations of surfactants, producing a foam that helps remove the excess sebum that plagues this skin type
• active ingredients might be too drying and irritating on the skin, especially benzoyl peroxide
• active ingredients might get in your eyes while rinsing off the cleanser

Emulsion Cleansers:

• commonly known as cleansing milks, these are most often oil-in-water emulsions
• can use natural oils, mineral oil or other fatty materials as emollients
• excellent makeup removers
• good solvents for talc and pigments, which are removed more easily with emulsion than with many rinsable foaming cleansers
• usually liquid, but can vary in thickness depending on the oils and ingredients used in the formulation
• can be adapted for particular skin types – soothing agents can be added for sensitive skin, and oil-absorbing ingredients added for oilier skin types
• low foamers – less detergents, which makes it good for dry and sensitive skin
• often gentle on the skin
• wash and moisturize the skin (especially good for dry skin)
• a toner should be used after a cleansing milk to help remove the excess fatty material left behind

How often do we cleanse?
Depending on the cleanser used, everyone should cleanse once or twice a day. In the morning you will be removing mainly sweat and sebum, and in the evening you will also be removing any pollutants that your skin has accumulated during the day. But, you have to make sure that you have the cleanser which is appropriate for your skin, as otherwise cleansing twice a day might be too irritating.

Lightly rub the cleanser over your skin to loosen cosmetics, debris and dirt. Moisten finger-tips with water, for easier application. (Make sure that you cleanse your skin gently. The idea of ‘deep-cleaning’ the skin is unhealthy, as you can never get inside the pore to clean it out.) Then rinse well with warm water. Some people prefer just wiping off excess with a clean dry cloth/tissue. However, you have to make sure that you remove all the cleanser, as some ingredients could be irritating if left on the skin, and they might even clog the follicles (pores). After cleansing, it’s advisable to use a toner appropriate for your skin, as this helps to make sure that you remove any cleanser residue.

Summary
When choosing an appropriate cleanser, make sure it is gentle on the face, and water-soluble. Facial cleansers should rinse off easily, and remove all traces of makeup. Once the cleanser is rinsed off, it should not leave the skin feeling greasy, filmy, dry, tight or irritated. And it should never burn the eyes or taste bad.

In addition make sure to choose a cleanser that is appropriate for your skin – as a cleanser that is too greasy can create blemishes, while a cleanser that is too drying can create dry patches, since drying up the skin doesn’t stop the glands from producing oil.