As we age, we start losing collagen in our skin. This leads to wrinkles, and aged skin. Collagen products claim that they contain collagen ingredients that can penetrate your skin and reverse the effects of aging. However, this is far from the truth.

What is collagen in the skin?

If we look at the diagram above, we see how collagen exists abundantly in the skin, in the dermis part of the skin to be exact (more so in the first picture on the left – so in younger skin). Collagen is kind of the building block of our skin. It helps the skin to remain plump, elastic, smooth. As we age (second picture to the right), the elastin and collagen which are abundant in the dermis layer of the skin start to decrease. This leads to a loss in firmness, loss of elasticity – so we start seeing wrinkles, fine lines and sagging skin.

Another thing that speeds up the degradation of collagen production is exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV rays) in particular UVA. UVA is actually the rays that cause ageing to the skin, and can come through clouds and through windows when we are indoors. (That is why it is important to always apply a broad spectrum sunscreen as part of your anti-ageing/skin management routine.) See separate articles on mySKiN&CO’s blog on sunscreen and its benefit in preventing ageing.

Also a diet consisting of high sugar levels leads to changes in the number and quality of the collagen produced in the skin (dermis). A chemical reaction called ‘advanced glycation’ occurs between glucose (sugar) and the free amino groups in proteins (collagen). Advanced glycation cannot be degraded, and so remain in the area of the skin where they form. This leads to less collagen production, and so visible signs of premature ageing.

How does collagen look like?

The above diagram shows how collagen is built in the skin – it starts out as a chain of amino acids, which form coils, and then bind together to make the collagen fiber. In the end, collagen is a very big structure. So when products add ‘collagen’ to the skin, the collagen structure is way too big to penetrate the skin to work in the deeper layer of the skin (dermis). This means that the collagen ingredient in the skin product does not enter the skin (dermis) as it is too big, and therefore does not do what these products claim – usually regenerate your collagen and help with fine lines and wrinkles.

The only thing that the ‘collagen’ ingredient in a product does, is sit on the top layer of the skin (epidermis) and hydrate the skin. So it temporarily plumps up the skin and reduces the fine lines. However, once the product wears off, its effect is gone. Unfortunately, collagen products do not make claims that the effect is a temporary one, but instead make these claims that it is anti-ageing and regenerates your collagen.

What are collagen peptides?

Some products claim that they use ‘collagen peptides’ instead of the larger collagen structure. Collagen peptides (hydrolysed collagen) are like fragments of collagen which are smaller, and hence they claim that since they are smaller they are more able to penetrate the deeper layer of the skin (dermis). Once the collagen peptides enter the dermis of the skin, they are able to work on regenerating the skin’s collagen. However, there is not enough research yet to support these claims.

Are collagen creams worth it?

Collagen in itself is not a bad ingredient. However, you just need to be mindful that the collagen structure is way too big to penetrate the deeper layer of the skin (dermis) to actually regenerate the skin’s collagen. Collagen peptides are smaller fragments of collagen and they have the ability to penetrate the deeper layer of the skin. But their effects on regenerating collagen in the skin is not yet proven scientifically. Collagen as an ingredient in a cream has the ability to ‘fill in’ the top layer of the skin cells (epidermis) and plump up the skin. So collagen does help to hydrate the skin, plump up the skin, and temporarily reduce the appearance of fine lines. However, collagen does not regenerate the skin’s collagen. So you can buy products that contain collagen for hydrating and pumping the skin, but don’t believe the marketing hype of anti-ageing and regenerating collagen. In addition, collagen products charge quite a hefty price for this claim. So you might want to consider if you are better off buying a regular cream (cheaper?!) that has ingredients like ceramides and hyaluronic acid to plump up the skin?!

What increases collagen production in the skin?

Research has proven time and time again that the ingredient that boosts collagen production in the skin is retinoid. Retinoids are Vitamin A derivatives. See separate articles on my SKiN&CO’s blog about retinoids.

Some products that contain retinoids

Adapalene or Differin – this is available OTC in US, and by prescription in Canada

CeraVe Skin Renewing Cream with retinol

Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair with retinol (fragrance free)

Tretinoin – by prescription

*Note retinoids are not suitable for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Comments

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