The short answer is YES. But the key is to choose a moisturizer that is good for your oily skin, as otherwise the wrong moisturizer can actually make your skin oilier. In this article I will explain what is oily skin, causes, why is oil (sebum) needed, and moisturizers that works for your oily skin.
What is oily skin?
As you can see in the diagram, the sebaceous gland (where oil/sebum is produced) is ‘overactive’. This means that it is producing more oil than for someone with normal or dry skin. The excess oil then travels up the shaft to the top layer of the skin. This is the visible part. The excess oil causes shiny skin. The oil at the top layer of the skin accumulates together with the dead skin cells that exist on the top layer of the skin. This then leads to pimples, blackheads, shininess and large pores, which are visible to us. But what is happening is underneath the skin.
What causes oily skin?
- Most often this is genetic.
- Another reason is our hormones – in particular the hormone testosterone. In puberty, testosterone (both men and women have testosterone) triggers our sebaceous glands to start producing more oil. Also during hormonal changes such as before menstruation, during ovulation, menopause, pregnancy, on birth control pills, will effect the sebaceous glands and how oily our skin is.
- For some people our food choices can also effect our oil production, especially if it is food that contains hormones such as dairy, meat. Also for some it is high sugary, processed foods – high glycemic index (high GI).
- Darker skin usually has more oil content than light skin.
- In certain climates – especially in hot and humid climates.
- Some medical conditions also can contribute to more oil production, such as diabetes, PCOS. It is important to speak to your doctor if you suspect that you have symptoms of a medical condition that is causing oily skin, as then you would need to get a proper diagnosis and treat your medical condition.
- If using very harsh products (too many products, too many acids, scrubbing skin too much), you would be stripping your skin of its oil and water and the skin becomes dry. However the skin needs that oil, and so it would compromise by producing more oil. So in the end it would be counterproductive – your skin would feel temporarily non-oily, but the oil glands then go in over-drive and start producing more oil.
Why is oil (sebum) important?
- it keeps our skin lubricated – soft and plump skin. If there is no oil on the skin, the skin would be very dry.
- it prevents trans epidermal water loss. The oil settles on the surface of the skin, and prevents water loss through the skin. If water loss occurs, it eventually dehydrates the skin and leads to an impaired skin barrier. An impaired skin barrier is ‘open’ to irritants to enter the bottom layers of the skin. This would lead to inflammation, irritation sensitivity, itchiness. The skin would then compensate by producing more oil.
- it protects the skin from bacteria entering our skin – like a protective layer.
What is the focus of treatment for my oily skin?
- minimize oil production in a healthy way to reduce the shine (see separate article on this, specifically the benefit of salicylic acid in your cleanser)
- prevent clogging of the pores to reduce future breakouts (see separate article on this, specifically the treatment of oily skin using ingredients as retinoids, benzoyl peroxide)
- hydration, as it prevents the sebaceous glands from going into overdrive oil production. This is achieved through the use of our moisturizer. Some ingredients are hyaluronic acid, ceramides and in a way niacinamide.
What moisturizer works best on my oily skin?
So to recap, a moisturizer helps to protect the skin barrier. The skin barrier is the top layer of the skin. A moisturizer helps to keep the skin barrier intact, and plump. If the skin barrier is compromised in any way, then the skin is ‘broken’ which lets irritants into the bottom layers of the skin. This would lead to inflammation, irritation, sensitivity, itchiness, and the skin would react by producing more oil. When we have oily skin, we usually use treatment products (not moisturizers, but the treatment products with ingredient like benzoyl peroxide) to control the oil, that contain ingredients that can be drying on the skin. A moisturizer makes sure that the skin remains plump, healthy and intact. Moisturizers also make sure that the skin remains hydrated, as water loss still occurs in oily skin.
The key is to find a moisturizer that feels right to you. Preferably it is a lightweight formula that does not feel heavy and oily on the skin. They are usually called lotions instead of creams. Sometimes we can find gel formulas which are lighter, although gels act more to hydrate the skin than to protect the skin barrier. Preferably with a gel moisturizer you would still apply a light weight moisturizer on top. A good moisturizer makes sure that it does not cause you more irritation, more breakouts, and more oil production.
Some moisturizers that would work for oily skin
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM
Cetaphil Daily Hydrating Lotion
COSRX Hydrium Green Tea Aqua Soothing Gel Cream
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra Fluid )
Neutrogena Hydro Boost Facial Gel Cream
Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisturizer
For more information about a good moisturizer for oily skin including ingredients and to help you choose the right moisturizer for you, read the article here. It goes in more detail and can help you choose the right moisturizer that can work for you.
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